The Rise of Retro Jewels: 1930s to Mid-Century Glamour

The era spanning the 1930s through to the 1960s gave birth to some of the most dynamic and enduring styles in jewellery history. Often referred to today as “retrospective jewellery,” this mid-20th century period is celebrated for its unapologetic glamour, bold use of yellow gold, and statement-making silhouettes.

It is without a doubt the most desired and collectible genre at present. With roots in the waning Art Deco movement and branches reaching toward the optimistic modernism of the postwar years, this era produced pieces that continue to captivate collectors, designers, and wearers alike.

The Legacy of Art Deco
Though Art Deco had its peak in the 1920s, its influence carried well into the early 1930s. The streamlined geometry, symmetry, and machine-inspired forms softened slightly in the wake of the Great Depression, evolving into what we now recognize as ‘retro’ style. Jewellery from this transitional phase maintained the strong lines and architectural precision of Art Deco but began to incorporate more curves, dimension, and a more sculptural aesthetic.

The Bold and the Beautiful
The 1940s saw the rise of yellow and rose gold as dominant materials—partly due to wartime restrictions on platinum and partly in response to the growing desire for warmth and richness. Gold became not just a material, but a canvas for drama. Oversized scrolls, voluminous ribbons, and sculptural floral motifs began to dominate brooches, necklaces, earrings, and bracelets. These were jewels made to be seen, to reflect strength and femininity in equal measure.

Hollywood’s Golden Age helped fuel the popularity of these pieces. Onscreen sirens like Marlene Dietrich and Lauren Bacall were often adorned with hefty bangles, dramatic clips, and gold chokers—accessories that exuded confidence and opulence.

Charms, Sentiment, and the Henry Dankner Appeal
Among the most endearing and collectible symbols of this era are charm bracelets, particularly those crafted by Henry Dankner & Sons. Founded in the early 1930s and flourishing through the ‘50s and ‘60s, Henry Dankner became synonymous with richly detailed, whimsical 14k gold charms that often contained moving parts, hidden compartments, or enamel detailing. His work perfectly embodied the era’s penchant for personal storytelling and playful luxury.

Charm bracelets became wearable diaries—each charm a memento of travel, romance, or milestones. Dangling gold telephones, a whimsical floral bouquet, dogs, cocktail shakers, sailing boats and miniature photo frames adorned wrists, each one animated with meticulous craftsmanship and character. A single Dankner charm might feature a secret compartment or moving elements, making them not just ornamental, but interactive keepsakes.

Mid-Century Modern and Jewellery’s Evolution
By the 1950s and into the early 1960s, design was evolving once again. While the bombastic shapes of wartime jewellery gave way to sleeker silhouettes, the fondness for gold remained strong. Jewellery began to echo the broader design principles of mid-century modernism—form and function in harmony, with more organic lines and integrated settings for gemstones. Pieces from this later period often feature cabochon-cut stones in subtle pastel hues, textured gold finishes, and an embrace of minimalism—while retaining the confident scale and personality of the earlier retro period.

Trending at Auction
In today’s vintage and auction markets, retrospective jewellery is experiencing a significant revival. Yellow gold, once overlooked during the white metal craze of the 1990s and early 2000s, is firmly back in vogue. The oversized rings, tank bracelets, and retro brooches once tucked away in grandmothers’ drawers are now prized for their craftsmanship, weight, and undeniable glamour.

Henry Dankner charms, in particular, have developed a cult following. Collectors eagerly seek out rare and unusual designs, especially those in original condition with functioning mechanisms and enamel intact. These charms are often passed down, reconfigured, or worn en masse for a layered, storytelling look that bridges past and present.

A Golden Age… as Desirable as ever!
The jewellery of the 1930s to 1960s represents far more than a style—it’s a statement of resilience, artistry, and bold beauty. Whether worn as nostalgic heirlooms or curated with contemporary flair, these pieces continue to resonate with those who admire substance, sentiment, and sophisticated design. The retrospective era wasn’t just about looking glamorous—it was about making an impression. And decades later, it certainly does.

By Steven Milonas, Head of Fine Jewels & Timepieces

Top Image: Lauren Bacall / Alamy

May 2025