Long relegated to antique jewellery boxes and the lapels of eccentric relatives, the brooch has undergone a spectacular transformation. No longer a quaint relic of the past, this timeless accessory has reclaimed its place at the pinnacle of style.
Brooches are once again gracing runways, red carpets, and curated wardrobes with a renewed sense of poise and power. Their reemergence is not simply a nostalgic indulgence—it is a modern sartorial awakening. In a world increasingly defined by personal expression and quiet luxury, the brooch speaks volumes.
This revival is anchored in the brooch’s unmatched versatility. As both ornament and emblem, a brooch can elevate the simplest silhouette into a moment of high style. Far from mere embellishment, it offers an intimate expression of identity, heritage, and aesthetic discernment. Whether gleaming with precious stones or fashioned from enamel and gold, each brooch is a miniature sculpture—an object of personal meaning as much as visual pleasure. In this age of overproduction, the brooch appeals as a curated counterpoint: intentional, expressive, and deeply personal.
Designers and tastemakers have embraced the brooch’s return, integrating it seamlessly into both traditional and avant-garde fashion. When pinned to the lapel of a tailored blazer or the shoulder of an evening coat, a brooch becomes a sophisticated focal point. Multiple brooches, layered with care, offer a maximalist elegance—an opportunity to play with scale, texture, and form. This curated extravagance is not about excess, but about refinement and personalisation. The brooch grants its wearer a unique language of style.
In more subtle gestures, brooches lend themselves to the everyday with understated grace. A single, sculptural pin at the hip can redefine the lines of a dress; a delicate accent at the collar or on a cashmere sweater can imbue an outfit with quiet distinction. Adornments on hats, bags, or gloves create unexpected moments of charm and sophistication. This adaptability makes the brooch as relevant in daywear as in evening ensembles, appealing to a new generation that appreciates both craftsmanship and creative self-expression.
Among the most enchanting brooches are those that embrace the whimsical. First gaining prominence in the early 20th century, these designs brought a light-hearted elegance to fine jewellery. From fanciful florals to charming motifs like birds, bicycles, or teapots, whimsical brooches have long delighted collectors and aesthetes alike. Their appeal lies not only in their artistry, but in their celebration of individuality and imagination. Today, these pieces are treasured not only for their visual delight, but for the stories they tell and the moods they evoke.
Brooches also possess a unique communicative power, extending far beyond their ornamental function. Few exemplify this more vividly than Madeleine Albright, the first female U.S. Secretary of State. With subtle brilliance, she transformed her brooches into tools of diplomacy. Her collection, showcased in the book Read My Pins, revealed how a single accessory could articulate mood, assert presence, or even signal political messages. A missile-shaped pin worn during arms negotiations or a bug brooch following a surveillance scandal were not mere flourishes—they were statements. Albright’s approach demonstrated the brooch’s rare capacity to embody intellect, wit, and authority all at once.
Royalty, too, has long understood the symbolism and stature of brooches. Queen Elizabeth II’s resplendent collection is a masterclass in historic gravitas and personal taste. Chief among her treasures is the Cullinan III and IV brooch—two immense diamonds, affectionately known as “Granny’s Chips,” cut from the largest gem-quality rough diamond ever discovered. They remain enduring icons of regal sophistication.
Intriguingly, the brooch is no longer confined to women’s fashion. Its adoption into menswear signals a broader shift in contemporary style. Fashion houses such as Gucci and Alexander McQueen have reimagined the brooch as a luxurious yet modern element of the masculine wardrobe.
The cultural vanguard—Harry Styles, Timothée Chalamet, and Justin Timberlake among them—have embraced this shift with unmistakable flair. Whether it’s a pearl brooch on a velvet tuxedo or a jewelled panther on a silk lapel, these statements reflect a refined rebellion.
The brooch, in its current renaissance, is more than a trend. It is a response to fashion’s growing desire for meaningfulness and craftsmanship. In a market oversaturated with fleeting fads, the brooch offers something enduring—something curated. It rewards the eye and the intellect. It draws from heritage while speaking to the now. Whether adorned with diamonds or fashioned from found materials, the brooch has returned not merely as decoration, but as declaration.
And so, the brooch reclaims its rightful place: at the intersection of artistry, expression, and elegance. For those who appreciate the details—the finely wrought clasp, the thoughtful design, the rich narrative it carries—there is no accessory more refined, more powerful, or more quietly captivating.
By Hamish Sharma, Head of Important Jewels
Top Image: Uma Thurman attending The Metropolitan Museum of Art Met Gala 2016, in New York City / Alamy
May 2025