Once in a time when dress etiquette was governed by convention, the brooch was seen as the quiet final addition. Like gloves, a hat, or a tie pin, the brooch quietly completed the look. Formalities and royal orders aside, the brooch today has become an individual form of expression. The modern brooch has not just experienced a resurgence but has become a must-have piece as wearers embrace its ability to tell a story, represent something personal, or show off that little bit of flair.
At Leonard Joel, this revival is evident in the auction room. Brooches are attracting growing interest from collectors, fashion enthusiasts, and first-time buyers alike. From antique diamond sprays and Victorian mourning brooches to whimsical animal studies or bold mid-century designs, brooches are achieving strong results and finding new audiences. What was once considered a somewhat old-fashioned category has re-emerged as one of the most exciting areas of the jewellery market.
Historically, brooches were worn according to strict social rules. They served practical purposes, fastening garments and cloaks, while also communicating status, rank, and occasion. A gentleman’s tie pin, a military insignia, a lady’s diamond spray worn to a formal dinner, or a royal order pinned to ceremonial dress all conveyed specific messages understood within society. Today, those rules have largely disappeared, and the brooch has disrupted dress and expression.
Now, brooches can be worn wherever one chooses. There is no longer a correct place or occasion. A diamond flower or spray may adorn a denim jacket, a cuff on a shirt, a collar, or a lapel. An antique sapphire brooch may be pinned to a handbag or a scarf. A Victorian insect becomes a conversation piece on a modern blazer in place of – or alongside – a pocket handkerchief. The freedom to wear a brooch without convention is precisely what makes it so appealing and fun to contemporary collectors.
Because the brooch is now embraced, and while jewellery trends come and go, it offers something different; individuality. A carefully chosen brooch can reveal a sense of humour, a passion, a memory, a personal aesthetic, symbol, or be worn just because.
Adopted as part of one’s personal style, we increasingly see lapel brooches, gemstone-set insects, floral motifs, and decorative pins adding character to tailored clothing at red carpet events and beyond, on men as well as women. Antique jewels are being styled in contemporary ways, proving that exceptional craftsmanship never goes out of fashion. Collectors are drawn to pieces that reflect their personality rather than simply complement their wardrobe.
Perhaps this explains the growing popularity of animal brooches. Whether depicting birds, foxes, dogs, florals, insects, or mythical creatures, these jewels often reveal something about their owner. They are styled, charming and highly individual. Brooches of bees are hugely popular for their use of gems, colour, texture, and sparkle.
Victorian mourning brooches have been reinvented as bold statement pieces. Fashioned from jet, gold, seed pearls, enamel and occasionally incorporating locks of hair, they were designed to commemorate loved ones and preserve their memory. While modern tastes mostly differ from Victorian customs, in a world increasingly influenced by mass production and fleeting trends, buyers are seeking objects with history, craftsmanship, and character. Antique and vintage brooches offer all three. Each piece carries a story and invites a new chapter with its next owner.
At Leonard Joel, we have witnessed growing demand across our collections with brooches in diamonds, coloured gemstones, enamel, jet, and costume jewellery. The brooch may once have been a formality but today it is no longer about following the rules; it is about expressing individuality. So, whether worn on a lapel, scarf, hat, handbag, or dress, I encourage you to style a brooch to show who you are without saying a word.
By Annie Soust, Head of Fine Jewels & Timepieces, Melbourne
Top Image: Joe Alwyn at the 2026 Oscars wearing a Carnation brooch by Chaumet
August 2026