It struck me recently, that over the years in my auction journey, one watch brand has dominated my watch valuing time more than any other. Time and time again one watch has been more insistent and consistent in staking its claim on my desk for auction pricing above any other. No prizes for guessing that the watchmaker in question is the Swiss powerhouse – Omega.
By the 1950s, Omega was already a well-established Swiss luxury wristwatch maker. During this period, the company was expanding its global reach, making it probable they would have established sales and marketing operations in key international markets. Watch brands are definitely dominant in different geographical regions, and in the case of Australia – being the island continent it is – it appears we have a natural affinity towards the two leading brands that manufacture dive watches: Rolex and Omega. But between the pair, Australia skews towards Omega – taking the place of the number one brand in the region as well as the number one model in the Omega Seamaster.
Putting aside the one watch that eclipses the watchmaker’s catalogue (which is undoubtedly the inter-galactically famous Speedmaster), there are three other pillar collections the watchmaker rests on, each carrying its own chapter of innovation, style and adventure:
Constellation – steered by the stars with observatory precision
The Constellation was born in 1952 and carried forward the technical excellence and luxe finishing of the Centenary but would introduce distinctive design elements that would become iconic Omega motifs. Famously adorned with the Observatory medallion on its caseback the Constellation would deliver chronometer-grade accuracy in their automatic movements. One instantly recognisable design feature was the distinctive faceted convex dial. Known as a ‘pie-pan dial’ as it resembled the upside-down pie pans of the era. Today these striking dials, the star and faceted hour markers, the Dauphine hands, and unique ‘dog leg’ lug-shape are enough for even the most seasoned collector to swoon over.
Seamaster – guided by the mythic hippocampus
Of all the Omega models I see, the Seamaster reigns supreme in popularity, due in large part that, incredibly, it is Omega’s longest continuously running model. Launched in 1948 it pre-dates even the Speedmaster. Many of the Seamasters I see (my father’s included) look nothing like the name implies, rather than resembling a dive watch, it is closer to a simple and classic 34mm dress watch on a leather strap, it is hard to fathom how it could possibly ‘master the sea’. Over the decades, however, the Seamaster evolved to earn fan favourite status, adopted by divers, chosen by the British military and sported on the wrist of 007 whether the spy was detected sipping a shaken martini or soaring the skies under a Union Jack parachute. And therein lies the secret to the Seamaster’s longevity: its versatility. It veers effortlessly from a dress watch one moment to a tool watch the next making it Omega’s most universally revered pillar.
De Ville – if timeless sophistication and technical ingenuity had a baby
When I think of a tried-and-true dress watch in the Omega stable I turn to the De Ville, the go to elegant and stylish classic of the family. Initially introduced in the early 1960s as a part of the Seamaster family, the De Ville series veered away from the sporty tool watch the Seamaster would gradually morph into. The dressy De Ville gave off sophisticated and elegant 1960s and 70s vibes. These watches typically feature manual or automatic movements, characterised by slim profiles, minimalist dials, in gold or plated cases and today they are certainly having a neo-vintage moment. But before you dismiss the De Ville as all style and no substance, it may surprise you to learn the first Omega to use a coaxial escapement was the De Ville Co-Axial Escapement Limited Edition in 1999.
Long before the Moonwatch, before the Bond watch, Omega already had a proven track record in versatility, durability and innovation above and below the seas. Perhaps I can add to that storied track record a shape-shifting ability that no other watchmaker can match, and it becomes clear why the recurring watch brand that lands on my desk is, Omega.
By Patricia Kontos, Senior Timepieces & Jewels Specialist
Top Image: Omega De Ville prestige co-axial, a stainless steel bracelet watch with power reserve indicator and date recent. Sold for $3,750
December 2025