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The Diana Effect: Three Jewels That Defined a Royal Icon

Diana, Princess of Wales, was a global symbol of grace whose sense of style continues to inspire decades on. Her jewellery collection – part royal inheritance, part personal expression – captured both her status and her individuality. From heirloom tiaras to custom-designed pieces, these jewels became part of her legend. Here, we explore three of the most memorable, each reflecting a different facet of her extraordinary life.

Princess Diana wearing the Spencer tiara / Alamy

The Spencer Tiara
When Lady Diana Spencer walked down the aisle of St Paul’s Cathedral in 1981, all eyes were not only on her voluminous silk taffeta gown but also on the dazzling tiara that crowned her. Rather than selecting a piece from the royal vaults, Diana honoured her lineage by wearing the Spencer Tiara, a treasured family heirloom lent to her by her father, the 8th Earl Spencer. Its romantic, scrolling design – featuring stylised flowers, stars, and a heart-shaped central motif – was the perfect complement to her fairytale look.

Though best known as Diana’s wedding diadem, the tiara has a much longer history. Its origins date back to 1767, with additions made over time, culminating in a major remodelling by Garrard in the 1930s for Diana’s grandmother, Cynthia Spencer. It became the bridal tiara of choice for Diana’s sisters, and later, her niece Celia McCorquodale.

Now held by her brother, the 9th Earl Spencer, the tiara stands not only as a family treasure but also as one of the most recognisable symbols of Diana’s elegance.

The Sapphire, Pearl and Diamond Choker
Among the few “big” jewels Princess Diana continued to wear after her separation from Prince Charles, none was more emblematic – or eye-catching – than her seven-strand pearl choker with its striking sapphire and diamond clasp. Originally gifted to Diana by the Queen Mother as a brooch on the occasion of her wedding, the piece began its life pinned to elegant lapels, including during a 1982 royal visit to the Netherlands. But in a bold act of personal style, Diana later had the brooch transformed into the clasp of a bespoke choker – reimagining the heirloom into something entirely her own.

The choker quickly became one of her signature pieces, appearing at diplomatic receptions, charity galas, and, most memorably, at the White House in 1985, where she wore it with a midnight-blue velvet gown while dancing with John Travolta and President Ronald Reagan. Perhaps its most iconic outing came in June 1994, when Diana paired the choker with her now-legendary “revenge dress” – a bold, off-the-shoulder black number worn on the very evening Prince Charles publicly confessed to infidelity. The choker’s final public appearance came in 1996 at the Met Gala in New York.

Princess Kate Middleton wearing south sea pearl and diamond earrings / Alamy

The South Sea Pearl and Diamond Earrings
Though their provenance remains unknown, Princess Diana’s South Sea pearl and diamond earrings became a fixture in her jewellery wardrobe from the early 1990s onward. Featuring large detachable pearls suspended from scrolling diamond motifs, the earrings struck a balance between opulence and modernity, making them a fitting choice for both royal engagements and high-profile philanthropic events.

Diana first wore the earrings in November 1990 at the Enthronement Banquet of Emperor Akihito and Empress Michiko in Japan, pairing them with Queen Mary’s Lover’s Knot Tiara. Over the next several years, they became a signature piece, seen on tours to Pakistan, South Korea, Hungary, and at home in London. As she transitioned away from royal duties toward humanitarian work, the earrings took on new prominence – worn at events such as the Victor Chang Research Institute dinner in Sydney, a gala for cancer research in London, and a fundraising dinner for landmine victims in Washington.

Their final public appearance on Diana came in 1997, just weeks before her death. Worn without the pearl drops, they accompanied her to a performance of Swan Lake at the Royal Albert Hall. After remaining unseen for more than two decades, the earrings re-emerged in 2019 on Catherine, Princess of Wales, at the BAFTAs. Since then, they have graced numerous high-profile occasions, including the South African State Banquet, Remembrance Sunday, and the Coronation of King Charles III. These elegant heirlooms continue to honour Diana’s legacy – gracefully carried into a new royal generation.

By Lauren Boustridge, Senior Jewellery Specialist

Top Image: Princess Diana wears a sapphire choker / Alamy

August 2025